2DM Blogazine

Guest Interview n°9: Benedetta Barzini

Who is the most surprising designer of the spring summer collection 2010?
No real surprises, honestly. Some demonstrate knowledge on cutting and sewing, but the style belongs to a melancholic past.

And who is the most telented?
I hate to place one above another. ‘Better than’ is not in my way of thinking.

There was a lot of criticism about the Milan fashion week this time… Why? Do you agree with this point of view?
In Italy there is no sense of solidarity or common sense. I’m not going into what designers and organizers fight over. It’s rather repetitive (somewhat like the clothings that come out of the Italian productions).

Milan, Paris or New York?
Milan is commerce. Paris is Paris, light years separated from the other capitals. New York is playing around with the aura it has of being the most exiting place to be in, so it created a personal way of dressing. New Yorkers indeed yearn for France.

How do you see the intersection between street fashion and catwalk fashion?
‘Street’ talks about being different from acting out and dressing exactly like all others . ‘Catwalk’ reveals and therefore projects what the inner thought of women-seen-through-men’s-eyes is about.

In the past you were a model. What do you think has changed in the last 20 years for better or for worse?
Modelling today is opposed to the Sixties: the market has developed at an incredible rate, the girls are used and thrown out at a good pace, fashion is a product and the show must go on, regardless of its meaning.

What is the most negative aspect of the fashion world today? And the best one?
No negative or positive aspects: it constantly measures the temperature of a collective form of distorted unreality and tells us where affluent society stands.

What we must absolutely recover from the past?
The values of slowness. It allows people to assimilate an idea, a dream, lots of important lost things..

You currently teach at Milan Politecnico. Do you consider internet a resource or a hazard? Do you use it for your lessons?
Internet. It’s an illusion of power, knowledge and contact. It really only gives you headlines whithout depth. It has the privilege of turning all people passive. I can smell it a mile away when a student just owns some internet notions.

One example to follow and one to avoid..
Figure out what you could think without using someone else reflections. Avoid plucking your eyebrows.

Describe your typical day.
I’m sort of lost these days, so there is no typical

Your speciality in kitchen?
I’m not keen on cooking, but I can make a decent vegetable soup.

By Silvia Bergomi | images by Matteo Cherubino

Guest interview N°8: Jules Kim – Bijules

Jules Kim is the brilliant mind behind the extremely innovative New York based jewelry brand BIJULES. Always forward thinking and never afraid to take risks, Jules is making a difference in the fashion world. Not only she has been prolific since her starters, but also Jules managed to introduce and get appreciation for some totally new products on the scene like the Bone Crusher Headbander or the Nail Ring (Beyoncè is wearing her custom diamond ones on her Sweet Dreams music video). Her designs convey concepts that reflect American propaganda for the empowerment of women, the innocence of childhood and the dark humor of adulthood.

We had a chat with her a while ago.

How did you start off Bijules?
I moved to New York to get involved in the fashion industry. I worked in PR firstly then began to spin records and throw parties to make ends meet…I decided to begin Bijules when working for other people was no longer an option. I have the drive and passion to execute my own ideas. If I don’t risk failure then I would never succeed in my own eyes.

What inspires your creative drive?
I think life in general is inspirational. Everyday is so different and fresh! I am a big music and fashion person. I also need to travel frequently. Staying in one place is boring and aesthetically draining!

You’ve been in the business for a while now although you’re quite young. How have your skills improved?
Wow! I’m young?! Yeah! I’ve learned to follow my instincts and react quickly to them. Working with other people and trusting them is difficult but once again, I have to let others help in order to be successful!

What are the learnings so far, I mean is there choices that you wouldn’t make now that maybe you considered worthy in the beginning?
At the beginning I promised miracles. Now I understand the limitations of being human and also the limitations of others.

How far do you want to go with Bijules and would you ever sell to an investor (which could compromise your creativity & make it suffer maybe)?
Hahah, hell yeah I’d sell…If I can do it once I can do it again! My work is an exercise for my future careers!

Your lingerie collection was astonishing. It’s more like seeing design objects then jewels that you would probably wear. How did you come up with that?
I need to push concepts and reshape the way people define objects. Lingerie is wearable but not formal, I wanted to showcase a woman’s intimate style over her clothing. I aim to redefine jewelry standards…if we defy we can define!

What advice would you give to talented young girls starting out in a career path similar to yours and following a dream?
I’d say DO IT. Don’t hesitate, and do things passionately. Don’t ever doubt hardwork because luck doesn’t exist for those who don’t work.

You’ve been to Italy quite a few times; how do you like it there? What’s good and what do you dislike?
I love Italy. I love the country and the people are so human and intimate. I dislike the fact that there are few immigrants and only Italians in positions of authority. I’ve witnessed some heinous racial discrimination by the police.

Text by Ada Korvafaj | image courtesy of Alessandro “Zuek” Simonetti